Anyone tried making their own joystick before? Going through my parts bin and old sticks, noticed that most of the failures for them are pretty common throughout. So, gonna give a shot at making my own. Clay mold, then either have a buddy at a foundry cast the parts, or make them out resin. Looking for weight, and durability, along with functions i want on my stick. And thoughts, or ideas on this?


Ideas so far

Heavy, prob 5 pounds.

Spring loaded, (going cheap here, but strong) Old valve spring so it will be very stiff

Some features of the cyborg, ie reversible parts, adjustable heights, handrest

Rebuildable, after i go through this, i want to be able to repair the thing if something goes wrong, or i drop it too often like my others

some sort of sticky base, so it stays where you put it while playing


I am pretty good at building stuff, however, the electronics part is my shortcoming. Hence the roguing parts from sticks i have, or if needed, ill buy some more for parts Unless radio shack has what i think i need .

If you are serious about this.

Your switches:
Trigger:
Somethign like this will be a bit more durable than a standard reed type switch.


Stick Switches:
These may work better for durability. The regular type of buttons you get inside joysticks don't last very long really. These will last a lot longer


Four your direction controls i would be inclined to rip apart one of your old sticks and use the electronics out of that. You need to figure out your throttle as well. For that you need to either find the right Variable Resistor that can be attatched to a throttle stick or use one out of another stick. preferably the one you rip the guts out of.

If you do it then post a pic up of it here. WOuld be interesting to see it.

The electronics wold be out of either MS stick (i have 4) or saitek ( i have 2). I figure the switches can be from radio shack, but, the electronics might possibly let me use the srivers from the converted stick. Ditto if anyting else is put in there. Thanks for any help given.

Read the title and was thinking something else

lol, just saw my mistake, i can understand that.

What's the matter MOK, can't hit me using the joystick you've already got?


Just kidding, good luck with your endevour man.

another reason y i use the mouse and key board *secretly giggles cause they dont know im actually looking 4 a good joystick*
actually i dont mind the mouse and keys 4 now...its seems 2 b more acruate cause i use the mouse 2 move my torso but for some reason im not as good as i used 2 b ...i used 2 b able 2 kill any assult mech in 3 hits or less with my 2 clbx thor (my secret config ) and now it takes at least 5-7

I suggest using the contoller for Steel Batallion as an inspiration if you want a 'mech specific stick.

I did look at it, but, its too big and bulky for the space i have. And to to get one to rogue parts off of is ike 200 bucks. Nope. 20 bucks for a good donor stick, and same for a mouse. Heh, so far, best i can come with scrounging parts, should be interesting if it works. Thanks for the parts idea, i am goin to use marine parts, should reduce soda damage Though, it looks like it will use 2-3 usb ports to work, but thats ok. Getting a clay mock up together to base the metal parts off of.

Ok, round one, it kicked my ass. Base, and along witht the handle, will prob be expensive to get cast. Base turned out ok in mock up with clay, figuring out needed wire lengths and stuff. Handle turned out ok, made of clay for first test, drilled out then switches plugged in where i wanted them. However, first attempt to solder wires to the current connectors on the boards for one of my old sticks were abysmal failures. Way to much heat. I think i need a smaller iron. (read torched the board) Anyone know if cold solder would work for this?

you probably need somethign like a solder station with a temperature control.

Or alternatively a 15watt iron and some thin solder. Most people have stuff like 40/50watt irons and it's ALWAYS too hot.
Remember to tin the wires 1st, then when you are solderingonto the board don't touch the board or pins on the board. Just use th iron on the tinned wire and the solder should flow round the board pins.

It's all technique with soldering and not brute force.

Hehehe yep, mines for cars n stuff, not for delicate stuff like this. Live and learn. 3 sidewinders, and two Saiteks to go

its called a sharp knife and duct tape